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Quilting is used for many things besides creating warm and decorative bedding. Clothing, wall hangings, pillows, table runners and toys are only a few examples in which quilting can be used. Though the uses of quilting may change over the years, the basic principle of making a quilt remains the same. By definition a quilt consists of two layers, with batting between the top and the backing fabric. Stitches of decorative designs or threads tied through all thicknesses prevent the batting from shifting. The quilting stitches are regularly spaced, multiple lines of a running stitch done by hand or sewing machine. (Please see product description details in Product Showcase or in Product Quilting Details. for information concerning stitching intervals for various Mountain Mist batting.) The top may be pieced or appliquéd or a combination of both. A pieced quilt is made by sewing small pieces together to create a design. An appliquéd quilt is made by whipping, with fine shadow stitching, various colored shapes of cloth to a solid background. Another lovely form of quilt making consists of a plain top of a particularly fine fabric decorated with embroidery stitches and/or an intricate design of quilting stitches. top |
First, determine the size of the quilt you wish to make. If for a bed quilt, measure the mattress top and measure how far down you want the quilt to drop. Add this second measurement to each side and one end measurement. Add 8-10" more to the end measurement if a pillow tuck is desired. Also add 4" to the width and length for "shrinkage". "Shrinkage" allowance does not refer to the actual shrinkage of fabric due to laundering, but the size reduction which will result from the quilting process. All fabrics used in quilt making should be prewashed and pressed. We do not recommend prewashing Mountain Mist batting products, they are ready for the needle. Choose a pattern according to your experience. A beginner may wish to select a simple patchwork design with fewer pieces and straight lines. Curved seam work is more difficult. Appliqué can be a more involved technique. The more complex the design the more difficult the quilt. Careful planning and accuracy are essential in quilt making. Have a clear idea of what your finished project will be like. top |
Patterns, or templates, may be cut from firm lightweight plastic, cardboard or sandpaper. The rough side of sandpaper placed against the fabric prevents sliding while tracing. Templates for machine piecing often include seam allowances. Templates for hand piecing usually do not and are to be marked on the wrong side of the fabric. For an appliquéd quilt top, mark your fabric on the right side of the fabric. Accurately trace the template as many times as the design requires, allowing 5/8" - 3/4" between pattern pieces. Cut out each piece allowing for a 1/4" seam allowance. (If using a buttonhole stitch or machine appliqué technique, cut on the traced line.) Make sure the grain line of the template is lined up with the fabric grain line. Cut sufficient number of pieces to assemble one block or unit. Stitch together. If correct, cut all pieces necessary to complete your project. Rotary cutters are useful to efficiently cut multiple pieces, particularly for machine piecing. Be sure to use the proper rotary cutting board surface. top |
For machine piecing, set the machine stitch length at 12-15 stitches per inch and use an exact 1/4" seam allowance. Back stitching is not necessary. When hand piecing, use a small running stitch along traced lines of each piece, beginning and ending with a small back stitch. Trim and press seams as they are completed. Press seams flat, over toward one side. Press with a dry iron to limit stretching. For appliqué patterns, position appliqué pieces on background block and baste or pin in place. Turn under edges along traced line and blind stitch. Machine appliqué may be done with a zig zag satin stitch to overcast cut edges. A piece of paper placed behind the quilt fabric will stabilize the satin stitch and should be carefully removed after stitching. Otherwise, cut your pieces allowing 1/4" seam allowances (as for hand appliqué). The turned under edges may then be straight stitched close to the edge. A tiny machine zig zag or blind stitch may be used with invisible thread along the edge to resemble hand appliqué. When all blocks have been completed, join them and add the borders to make the entire quilt top using an accurate 1/4" seam allowance. To measure for the borders, measure the length in three different places (top, middle and bottom) and average the three measurements. By measuring and averaging the borders, the quilted project is more likely to hang straight. When the quilt has been assembled and pressed you are ready for the quilting process. top |
Mark quilting lines and designs before the quilt top is basted to the batting and backing. Lay the quilt top on a flat surface to mark desired designs using a quilter's marking pencil. Some quilting may be done without marking, such as outline quilting, which will reflect the patchwork or appliqué design. Outline stitch 1/4" from each seam line. For more elaborate designs precut stencils are available. top |
The backing and batting should be cut at least 2" wider and longer than the quilt top. Lay the backing on a flat surface, wrong side up. Center the Mountain Mist® batting on the backing and gently smooth out wrinkles. (Hint: Choose Mountain Mist batting according to desired finished look and stitching intervals marked on the quilt top. See (Product Showcase or Product Quilting Details.) Place quilt top, right side up, on batting and baste following the lines on the basting diagram. Baste additional lines every 4-6 inches securing the layers. Safety pins may be used in place of the additional basting lines, especially for machine quilting.
Hand quilting may either be done using a quilting frame or hoop to help keep the quilt evenly taut. The quilting stitch is a running stitch using a number 9, 10 or 12 "between" one inch needle. Use a single strand of quilting thread and begin quilting in the center of the quilt and work out to the edges. The quilting stitches should go through all three layers of the quilt to hold the layers secure as well as to enhance the design of the quilted project. Ideally, a "good" quilter has 9-12 stitches to the inch, but even, straight stitches are of greater importance than smaller crooked ones. (Hint: Use Mountain Mist Quality Quilt Batting or Mountain Mist Quilt Light for easy quilting.) top |
Using a machine to make a quilt does not alter the fundamental process, it just speeds it up! The "straight" stitch on a home sewing machine becomes the quilting stitch. Before starting to quilt, adjust upper tension (usually loosen) in the machine and set the stitch length to 6 stitches to the inch. Clear nylon quilting thread may be used in the needle to blend with all quilt top colors. Thread the bobbin with regular thread to match the backing fabric. For straight in-the-ditch quilting a "walking" or "even feed" presser foot helps prevent puckered stitch lines due to shifting layers during stitching. Begin straight line quilting in the center of the quilt by tightly rolling half the quilt to fit under the machine arm. Stitch each half of the quilt row by row to the sides and ends, in both directions. Do not pull the quilt through the machine. Rather, guide the layers gently and evenly. For free motion machine quilting when stitching detailed designs and shapes use a "darning" foot with the feed dogs lowered. In this position you can go forward, side to side, and backwards. (Hint: Medium loft Mountain Mist Quality Quilt Batting or Quilt Light are easier to machine quilt.) Mountain Mist cotton batting is very popular for machine quilting since it tends to "cling" to the layers of fabric and stays in place. Remember, 100% cotton batting requires closer quilting. top |
Essentially, a comforter is an over-stuffed quilt. Thicker batting makes it difficult to connect the layers with a quilting stitch; therefore, a comforter is tied together with knotted yarn, placed at designated points. Tufting, to make a tied comforter is a faster and easier project than a hand or machine stitched quilt, and still has aesthetic appeal and warmth. Mark the completed comforter top with tufting points at regular intervals, about 3" apart. Do not tie your comforter any farther apart than 4". This prevents the batting from shifting when the comforter is laundered. Two layers of Mountain Mist Polyester Quality Quilt Batting or one layer of Mountain Mist Fatt Batt may be used when basting together with top and backing. For additional warmth, use additional layers of batting. Cut strong, lightweight yarn or embroidery thread into strands 12" long. Thread a long, sharp, large-eyed needle with a single strand of yarn or embroidery thread. Beginning on the top of the quilt, push the needle toward the backing through all layers at the tufting points. Leaving 6 inches of yarn on the top, bring the needle from the back through the layers to the top, one-quarter inch from where the needle entered. Remove the needle and securely tie loose ends of the yarn with a decorative knot or ordinary square knot, pulling the layers together. (Using a double strand of thread or yarn will give a flower-like appearance to the knot.) Trim the ends leaving 1-1/2" tails to the yarn and proceed to the next tufting point. Complete all tufts. top |
Trim the top layer and batting edges flush, leaving the back two inches larger than the top and batting. Fold in the raw edge of the back one-half inch and press. Bring this folded edge over the top of the batting and pin or baste to the top. Whip stitch in place or edge stitch by machine. If bias binding is used, all layers must be trimmed evenly with sharp scissors before binding. top |
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